Sunday, March 24, 2013

Bhagat Singh

I grew up in the early 1950s in Ferozepur, a small town within walking distance from the Indo-Pak border at Hussainiwala. The border ran along the river Sutlej, the eastern bank being India and the western one Pakistan.

Among the joys of a riverside town are the festivals that involve a dip in the river. On festival days the railways ran a special train for the short journey to an otherwise defunct railway station at Hussainiwala. There the line was blocked and beyond the block lay a barrage over which pre-partition trains used to ply into what was now Pakistan.
The Barrage on the Sutlej
An early childhood spent close temporally to the partition and physically to Pakistan meant that every visit to the river for a festival or for a picnic, incited  speculation among the youngsters about what lay on the other side.

Just across the water, in addition to the sworn enemy of India and all things good, the folklore went, lay what definitely belonged to us, the cremation place of Bhagat Singh, Raj Guru and Sukhdev.

It seemed  like a cruel twist of fate or laziness of Cyril Radcliff's pen which had put it just outside our reach.

Many hangovers from the partition featured regularly in the headlines. But the one closest to the our hearts, never seemed to do. There was heartburn about the apathy of those in Delhi towards, what must have been my first exposure to the phrase, "Punjabi Sentiments".

To our surprise however, it turned out that, away from the public eye, diplomatic negotiations were on. And in 1961, in a low key barter deal, the borders got redrawn. In exchange for a narrow strip of land covering the Bhagat Singh memorial, India ceded some twelve villages elsewhere along the border.

In 1965 and again in 1971, Pakistan tried, unsuccessfully, to  take back by force what had been ceded at the barter table.

My first visit to the cremation point in 1969 was an awe-ispiring moment. Where there was then a rudimentary plaque now stands a massive, if slightly gaudy, monument. I was there in 2011. The pictures can be seen here: The Martyrs' Memorial.