I grew up in the early 1950s in Ferozepur, a small town within walking distance from the Indo-Pak border at Hussainiwala. The border ran along the river Sutlej, the eastern bank being India and the western one Pakistan.
Among the joys of a riverside town are the festivals that involve a dip in the river. On festival days the railways ran a special train for the short journey to an otherwise defunct railway station at Hussainiwala. There the line was blocked and beyond the block lay a barrage over which pre-partition trains used to ply into what was now Pakistan.
An early childhood spent close temporally to the partition and physically to Pakistan meant that every visit to the river for a festival or for a picnic, incited speculation among the youngsters about what lay on the other side.
Just across the water, in addition to the sworn enemy of India and all things good, the folklore went, lay what definitely belonged to us, the cremation place of Bhagat Singh, Raj Guru and Sukhdev.
It seemed like a cruel twist of fate or laziness of Cyril Radcliff's pen which had put it just outside our reach.
Many hangovers from the partition featured regularly in the headlines. But the one closest to the our hearts, never seemed to do. There was heartburn about the apathy of those in Delhi towards, what must have been my first exposure to the phrase, "Punjabi Sentiments".
To our surprise however, it turned out that, away from the public eye, diplomatic negotiations were on. And in 1961, in a low key barter deal, the borders got redrawn. In exchange for a narrow strip of land covering the Bhagat Singh memorial, India ceded some twelve villages elsewhere along the border.
In 1965 and again in 1971, Pakistan tried, unsuccessfully, to take back by force what had been ceded at the barter table.
My first visit to the cremation point in 1969 was an awe-ispiring moment. Where there was then a rudimentary plaque now stands a massive, if slightly gaudy, monument. I was there in 2011. The pictures can be seen here: The Martyrs' Memorial.
Among the joys of a riverside town are the festivals that involve a dip in the river. On festival days the railways ran a special train for the short journey to an otherwise defunct railway station at Hussainiwala. There the line was blocked and beyond the block lay a barrage over which pre-partition trains used to ply into what was now Pakistan.
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| The Barrage on the Sutlej |
Just across the water, in addition to the sworn enemy of India and all things good, the folklore went, lay what definitely belonged to us, the cremation place of Bhagat Singh, Raj Guru and Sukhdev.
It seemed like a cruel twist of fate or laziness of Cyril Radcliff's pen which had put it just outside our reach.
Many hangovers from the partition featured regularly in the headlines. But the one closest to the our hearts, never seemed to do. There was heartburn about the apathy of those in Delhi towards, what must have been my first exposure to the phrase, "Punjabi Sentiments".
To our surprise however, it turned out that, away from the public eye, diplomatic negotiations were on. And in 1961, in a low key barter deal, the borders got redrawn. In exchange for a narrow strip of land covering the Bhagat Singh memorial, India ceded some twelve villages elsewhere along the border.
In 1965 and again in 1971, Pakistan tried, unsuccessfully, to take back by force what had been ceded at the barter table.
My first visit to the cremation point in 1969 was an awe-ispiring moment. Where there was then a rudimentary plaque now stands a massive, if slightly gaudy, monument. I was there in 2011. The pictures can be seen here: The Martyrs' Memorial.
Nice write up.....thanks for sharing the story
ReplyDeleteI didn't know about the barter , thanks for sharing. I am surprised but relieved that some were thoughtful about a place that is more than just a place.
ReplyDeletegraphically written so much so that I could visualize the events. I look forward to equally poignant part II
A splendid piece - straight from the heart.
ReplyDeleteIs it gaudy? Compared with golden statues
of people you see in Chennai street corners,
I would say the whole thing is understated.
Tapen
c'est vrai!
Delete13th April 1961, the Baisakhi day, was the first time public was allowed across the Sutlej bridge to visit Bhagat Singh's samadhi. Punjab's CM came for the ceremony. A public parade through Ferozepore was also held. Its chief attractions - Bhagat Singh's sister and his fiance (who remained single throughout her life).
ReplyDeletePradip
Thank you! You took me there with your words!Kusum described that visit to me so evocatively. Perhaps you could extend this piece with an account of it.
ReplyDeleteA touching write up. Thanks for sharing.
ReplyDeleteVenki
I've made space on my bookshelf for your book of short stories. Now only if you'd write one :)
ReplyDelete